Value in the south

The southern Italian wine scene had a reputation. It wasnt good. Once known for bland, overripe high volume table wine slugged down by the masses, these days something new is afoot. Increasing individuality and quality is sweeping across the southern end of the boot like a tidal wave. Producers are learning to control ripeness, producing wines of sweet red fruits, laden with fresh acid and minerality. These wines often have exuberant character that will appeal to almost any wine drinker. These wines can be hard to quantify because of the complexities of microclimates in the south of italy, and the inherent wild rugged and untamed aspect of the sun scorched landscape. I often find crossover with the rhone valley in the south of Italy, but with a little fresher acid profile if done correctly. Increasingly merlot, cabernet and international varietes are making their way into flashy oppulent blends that incorporate the indigenous varieties. Some wines such as Basilicatas aglianico del vuture are 100 percent varietal, while its Puglian neighbor will utilize grapes such a malvasia nero, negromaro, and even montepulciano that are foreign to most casual wine drinkers. Throw some noma di fantasia labeling in the mix and it can be hard to keep it all straight...but this is besides the point. The dynamism and complexities of southern italian wine, from the mineral drenched nero grown high on volcanic soils in sicilia to the robust aglianico grown in basilicata gives options to an increasingly adventurous wine consumer.

Within the last 5 years, many wine regions, including most of southern Italy, that were once considered behind the curve or lost at sea are making strides to produce wines that are brandable and quality focused. What is causing this surge in quality across the world? Perhaps the devaluation of land relative to the major regions makes it an attractive target for investment and innovation, or perhaps a few stubborn individuals who see their land in a different light than others have pioneered the way so that others can follow. In reality its both, leadership and investment opportunity, that is driving obscure wine regions to increase quality and create brand and value in the wine world. As quality increases in these regions the quality/price bar rises and options increase for the everyday wine consumer on a budget. There is no better time to be a wine drinker than now.

Here are some southern italian stand outs.

Macarico Aglianico Del Vulture 2007 (93+)

This wine is loaded with rich dark ripe fruits, glycerol and acid and tannin to back it up. Drenched with dark tones of earth chocolate and fruit, this long balanced wine is one of my favorities from the south.

Occhipinti Frappato 2008

The grape is Frappato. which does well on the sun baked hillsides. High elevations, volcanic soils and a female touch make an undeniably sexy and elegant wine…With a translucency reminiscent of pinot noir I raise the wine to my lips, it is sweet baked red fruits, herbs, flowers, wild game, pepper, and a refreshing acidity to balance it all. This reminds me of the rhone and parts of it even remind me of musar, and I love it. For more on Occupinti, http://personalwinebuyer.com/2009/07/03 ... -igt-2006/

Tasca d'Almerita Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 (90)

Great ripe wine with a nice balance of pyrazine and ripe fruits. Fine tannins medium acid and rich ripe red fruits...not the deepest or most complex wine but wonderfully balances..Just a pleasure to drink.

Some others, Score only

2007 Donnafugata tancredi (92)

2007 Tasca d'Almerita Rosso del conte (92)

Drink well!

Wine, by the sip

The last few days I have been giving some thought to wine education. Very few people endeavor into the world of wine beyond the shallow end of the pool. To many, wine can be intimidating. Few subjects are broader, more complex, in flux, and subjective than wine is. At first glance these are good reasons to be scared, but there is one key word that differentiates wine from normal knowledge acquisition. SUBJECTIVITY.

With every new vintage and new wine, new knowledge comes into play. If the masters of wine dont know it all, no one can. This is for good reason. There is magic, mystery and the unknown in wine. Its what makes it so beautiful. Therefore, gaining knowledge about wine must be a personal and passionate endeavor meant to enrich your, and only your, wine experiences. Not knowing one small detail about a wine does not make it taste any different, but endeavoring to know some things about a wine can make the experience more enriching. Like anything else, you get from wine what you put into it. The remedy lies in accepting wine education as a personal lifelong journey.

First, I think the stigma that surrounds wine needs to be addressed . The view that wine is a luxury item, destined only for the upper classes and special occasions, needs to be washed away. With every passing vintage more and more regions produce great wine at all price points. The access to great wine expands with every passing day. Wine can add a dimension of incredible beauty to life for all people. It has been said that wine is life and life happens every day.

Back to the real question, how do we get from A to B when it comes to wine knowledge. Many react by reading the myriad of books that will tell you every fact you might want to know about wine, but what is that knowledge worth? If it doesn't relate to your personal tasting experience of the wine or region at hand, its useless. After all wine is sensory and much of the knowledge surrounding wine is related to the transmission of one year, one vineyard, one fermentation and what that translates to us as individuals when we drink it. This poses the question, how do we make learning wine effortless and effective?

The solution is threefold. First, when you drink a wine make an effort to remember the varietal, vintage, region and producer. Before long a map of the wine world begins to appear and the puzzle pieces begin to fit together. You begin to remember that cabernet is made in chile, california and bordeaux because you have drank wines from there. Points of reference develop and the contrast within the world of wine begins to appear. Your personal journey around this map will lead into far more depth in some regions than others, but this will be YOUR journey, into wines YOU are passionate about. After all we learn the most when we pursue what we love. Secondly, read and research in a targeted way that is focused around the wines you are drinking at that time. If you perceive differences from what you read, trust yourself. Third, challenge yourself to drink from more regions and varietals than what you normally do. This will ensure that you are coming into new knowledge and reference points on a continual basis. If these three rules are followed the world of wine become clear sooner than you ever thought.

With your increased wine knowledge, you will be payed you back many times over. That dinner pairing or daily purchase is no longer a guess but a personal journey of discovery..you begin to understand your tastes and watch them evolve. With wine knowledge comes more intimacy with each glass of wine, more of a personal connection with the grape, region and producer. At this point the wine is giving back to you.

Wine knowledge is not a destination but rather a journey. Take in wine information by the sip, in your own style and remember, its just wine.