Value in the south

The southern Italian wine scene had a reputation. It wasnt good. Once known for bland, overripe high volume table wine slugged down by the masses, these days something new is afoot. Increasing individuality and quality is sweeping across the southern end of the boot like a tidal wave. Producers are learning to control ripeness, producing wines of sweet red fruits, laden with fresh acid and minerality. These wines often have exuberant character that will appeal to almost any wine drinker. These wines can be hard to quantify because of the complexities of microclimates in the south of italy, and the inherent wild rugged and untamed aspect of the sun scorched landscape. I often find crossover with the rhone valley in the south of Italy, but with a little fresher acid profile if done correctly. Increasingly merlot, cabernet and international varietes are making their way into flashy oppulent blends that incorporate the indigenous varieties. Some wines such as Basilicatas aglianico del vuture are 100 percent varietal, while its Puglian neighbor will utilize grapes such a malvasia nero, negromaro, and even montepulciano that are foreign to most casual wine drinkers. Throw some noma di fantasia labeling in the mix and it can be hard to keep it all straight...but this is besides the point. The dynamism and complexities of southern italian wine, from the mineral drenched nero grown high on volcanic soils in sicilia to the robust aglianico grown in basilicata gives options to an increasingly adventurous wine consumer.

Within the last 5 years, many wine regions, including most of southern Italy, that were once considered behind the curve or lost at sea are making strides to produce wines that are brandable and quality focused. What is causing this surge in quality across the world? Perhaps the devaluation of land relative to the major regions makes it an attractive target for investment and innovation, or perhaps a few stubborn individuals who see their land in a different light than others have pioneered the way so that others can follow. In reality its both, leadership and investment opportunity, that is driving obscure wine regions to increase quality and create brand and value in the wine world. As quality increases in these regions the quality/price bar rises and options increase for the everyday wine consumer on a budget. There is no better time to be a wine drinker than now.

Here are some southern italian stand outs.

Macarico Aglianico Del Vulture 2007 (93+)

This wine is loaded with rich dark ripe fruits, glycerol and acid and tannin to back it up. Drenched with dark tones of earth chocolate and fruit, this long balanced wine is one of my favorities from the south.

Occhipinti Frappato 2008

The grape is Frappato. which does well on the sun baked hillsides. High elevations, volcanic soils and a female touch make an undeniably sexy and elegant wine…With a translucency reminiscent of pinot noir I raise the wine to my lips, it is sweet baked red fruits, herbs, flowers, wild game, pepper, and a refreshing acidity to balance it all. This reminds me of the rhone and parts of it even remind me of musar, and I love it. For more on Occupinti, http://personalwinebuyer.com/2009/07/03 ... -igt-2006/

Tasca d'Almerita Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 (90)

Great ripe wine with a nice balance of pyrazine and ripe fruits. Fine tannins medium acid and rich ripe red fruits...not the deepest or most complex wine but wonderfully balances..Just a pleasure to drink.

Some others, Score only

2007 Donnafugata tancredi (92)

2007 Tasca d'Almerita Rosso del conte (92)

Drink well!